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Richard Kimball.
What to Look for When Buying a Used Lada Niva
1. First you must decide what you want to use the vehicle for. Is it for daily use as your primary transport ? or will it be used for fun off road weekends.
The difference being what you are prepared to put up with and spend money on.
If the vehicle is to be driven on the public roads, in most countries, by law, it must pass some kind of roadworthy test . If it is roadworthy at inspection ( the seller may provide some kind of certificate ) then you may not have to spend any money other than registration change over, insurance etc.
If it is not roadworthy you need to decide if you are able to and are prepared to pay for the repairs necessary to make it roadworthy.
2. Don't take the sellers word that the vehicle is in good shape. Ask for the reason they are selling it. If you don't think it is a genuine reason then be suspicious. I'm always very wary of anyone who tries very very hard to sell me a car. If it is so dam good why are they selling it ? The two main reasons for selling a car are usually: they have outgrown it, or they are sick of spending money on it.
3. One main point to remember is that if you are buying a used ( pre-owned ) car you can't expect it to be in new condition. Be fair to the seller, the older the vehicle the worst shape it will be in. The vehicle is only going to be worth what YOU are willing to pay for it. No matter how much the seller wants that is his privilege, if you feel it is too much there is no need to be rude or abusive, just pass it by.
4.
Most important things to look for.
Most mechanical things can be repaired so I believe you should always start with the bodywork.
RUST, rust is like a cancer, or an iceberg, the little you can see means there is a lot more hiding under there somewhere. Rust in the main body structure can be very expensive to repair properly. In NSW Australia it is probably the most often reason for vehicles being classed unroadworthy.
Rust in the chassis channels, bottom door sills, around the windscreen & rear door are the worst. Doors etc can be replaced, mudguards ( fenders ) are welded on and very difficult to replace. The floor can be replaced but remember the rear engine mount and transfer case are fixed to it so it must be done properly.
Check also that there has not been any repairs carried out by just bogging up the rust. Take a small magnet with you and slide it along the suspect panel, if it won't grip then it is likely that the area is full of bog.
Basically any pre 1989 models are sure to have some rust, especially in the coastal areas.
The main problem is that although they are made of heavy grade steel, the steel is of lower quality and priming/ painting is sometimes not carried out immediately in the production line.
Body Panels
If there is too much damage to the body panels this can be very expensive to repair. Remember, the doors are really the only panels that can be easily replaced.
Under body.
Ok, now you need to get down and dirty. Check under the vehicle, look for dents in the Chassis channels, see if the leading edges of the undercarriage are damaged or burred over, look for dents in the floor, look for mud, gravel etc. hanging on any parts. This will all indicate rough off road use. The more damage the less the previous owner(s) have cared for the vehicle.
While you are under there look at the universal joints on the drive shafts, see if the grease nipples are visible, or are they covered in grease and dirt ten years old ? Also the drain and fill plugs for the transfer case, front & rear diffs, engine & gearbox.. If these don't appear to have been used recently then it would indicate that the owner has not been servicing the vehicle frequently.
Take hold of the rear drive shaft, see if you can move it sideways and feel if there is any play in the joints. There may be some slight movement but if they are sloppy then the will need replacing. Same with the front drive shaft.
Look up between the transfer case & the gearbox, see if there is any visible damage such as cracks etc in the rubber joint ( dough-nut ) in the intermediate shaft. These are not too difficult to replace.
Next check the exhaust system, if it is fitted with a Catalytic converter these can be very expensive. If there are no visible holes anywhere see if there are tell tale signs of rust coming through the muffler such a patches where the metal is peeling or a different colour.
Check that the handbrake cables are in good condition & that it is not adjusted to it's fullest point.
Oil Leaks
It is fairly normal for a film of oil to cover most parts under a Niva. Now I won't say this is acceptable, but it is normal given that the gasket material is very very thin. This does not mean there should be a total oil bath under there, it should not be dripping on you.
This is another major reason for unroadworthyness.
If there are major oil leaks try to determine where the oil is coming from. Then you can make a decision as to weather you are prepared to carry out the necessary repairs.
Last thing to check under there is for any loose or missing bolts/nuts etc. A well maintained vehicle will be clean, well greased, all parts straight, and in good order. Regardless of it's age or mileage.
Engine Bay
So far we haven't tried to even start the engine, I know ! I don't class starting the engine as a first priority, most sellers will always make sure it will start when someone comes to view the vehicle so I usually don't worry so much about it and besides it can often put the seller off guard or indicate that you know what you are doing.
Check that the hood (bonnet ) release catch works properly, these thing are damn near impossible to repair and it can be very hard to find a replacement.
See if the engine bay is clean, even if it looks clean check down low and at the rear side of parts to see if there is any dirt and caked on muck that was missed by the steam cleaner. Someone who takes care of their vehicle will always keep the engine bay spotless.
Make sure all parts look like they are original, in the correct place, and fitted correctly. Plug leads should be clean and not frayed or loose, squeeze the radiator hoses, see that they are not hard & brittle or split at the ends. Rusty looking stains around they joints can indicate loose clamps as well as rust in the cooling system.
Things that are held in place by electrical tape or wire can indicate a owner that thinks he knows what he is doing but lacks the skill to do it properly so who knows what else he has tampered with.
Pull out the oil dip stick, see what colour the oil is, it should be almost clear ( red, brown, blue or green depending on the brand. ) and up to the full mark. Very dark or black oil indicates that it has not been changed for a long time ! or the piston rings may be worn. If it is a brown frothy or milky colour it may indicate that there is water in the sump.
Is the battery clean and free from corrosion ? are the water bottles for the radiator and windscreen washers in good order. Is there fluid in the Clutch and Brake reservoir ? What colour is it / should be red or green, not black.
Take hold of the air filter housing, see if it can be shaken, make sure the radiator is fitted firmly and not leaking, no major dents in the core ?
Try to shake the engine from side to side, to see if the engine mounts are OK.
In the Drivers Seat.
Are the seats fitted securely ? do they slide and adjust properly ? Be sure there are no holes in the seats, this can ensure a unroadworthy certificate.
Check the free play in the steering wheel, too much play can mean a worn steering box or worn linkages. Make sure the steering column is not loose.
Check the pedals are in place and the rubber boots are fitted. Feel how far down the brake pedal travels. Should only go about halfway down. Should feel firm and not spongy and should not slowly creep down.
Clutch pedal should only have about half in inch free travel.
Turn the ignition key on, see if the lights on the dash come on.
To Be Continued!
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