Original document courtesy of Richard Kimball.With additions and updates by myself.
Trouble Shooting
Vaz - 21213
This section is for those who don't have a workshop manual. I will add more to it as time goes on, if you feel it is needed.
These instructions are verbatim from the workshop manual so don't argue with me ! Tell it to AutoVaz !

The art of good Trouble Shooting is to follow a process of elimination, methodically.

1. Engine

a. Engine fails to start.
Cause Remedy
1. No fuel in carburettor - fuel pipes or filter clogged. Wash fuel pipes, wash fuel tank, replace filter.
Fuel filters of carburettor and/or fuel pump clogged Wash filters
Defective fuel pump Check operation of pump & replace defective parts
2. Defective Ignition System See "Ignition System"
3. With ignition ON carburettor electromagnetic valve fails to open.
Torn off wires laid to control unit or valve Check wires and connections, replace defective wires
Defective control unit Replace control unit
4. Carburettor choke valve fails to open when engine starts firing Eliminate trouble in carburettor cold stating unit
Engine Runs Erratically or Stalls at Idle
1. Disturbed idling adjustment Adjust Idle speed
2. Defective control system of carburettor electromagnetic valve See " engine fails to start "
3. Carburettor faulty; carburettor jets or channels blocked airblast jets and channels
water in remove water from carburettor, suck out sediment from fuel tank
leaky diaphragm of cold starting unit replace diaphragm
4. Ignition System faulty see " Ignition System " chapter
5. Air leakage through damaged hose connecting intake manifold with brake vacuum booster. Replace damaged hose.
6. Air leakage in connections of intake manifold with carburettor or cylinder head Tighten up nuts or replace gaskets, eliminate deformation or caburettor flange or replace carburettor.
7. Air leakage through damaged tube along which vacuum is fed to vacuum spark timer of ignition distributor Replace damaged tube

Engine Lacks Power & Pickup

1. Carburettor throttle valve open incompletely Adjust throttle valve control linkage
2. Air cleaner clogged Replace cleaner element
3. Ignition System faulty see " ignition system " chapter
4. Fuel Pump faulty Check pump performance and replace damaged parts
5. Carburettor faulty acceleration pump defective check pump capacity, replace faulty parts main jets clogged airblast jets choke valve opens incompletely Adjust choke valve linkage. wrong fuel level in float chamber Adjust float level setting defective diaphragm of power duty economizer replace diaphragm
6. Choked vent tube of fuel tank Blow through the tube with compressed air
7. Wrong valve clearances Adjust clearances
8. Timing phase marks out of alignment Change position of chain to align marks
9. Compression below 1MPa ( 10kgf/cm2 ) : broken or sticking piston rings Clean rings and piston grooves from carbon, replace damaged parts poor seating of valves grind seats badly worn cylinders and piston rings replace pistons, rebore and hone cylinders

Crankshaft Main Bearing Knock

As a rule this knocking, of a dull metallic nature, is detected when the throttle valve is sharply opened at idle speed. Its frequency grows with an increase in crankshaft speed. Excessive crankshaft end play causes a sharper sound with uneven intervals most conspicuous during gradual throttle up and down.
1. Early ignition Adjust ignition timing
2. oil pressure too low see " oil pressure too low at idle speed "
3. Loosening of flywheel bolts Tighten up to specified torque
4. Excessive clearance between thrust halfrings and crankshaft Replace thrust halfrings by new, thicker ones
5. Excessive clearance between main journals and their bearing shells. Grind journals and replace shells

Big-End Bearing Knock

Usually knocking of big-end bearings is sharper than that of the main bearings. It is heard at engine idling speed when the throttle valve is sharply opened. The origin of knocking can be easily identified by disconnecting spark plugs one after the other.
1. Insufficient Oil pressure see " Oil pressure too low at idling speed "
2. Excessive clearance between big-end journals and shells Grind journals and replace shells.

Piston Slap

As a rule it is a dull knocking caused by slackness of piston in the cylinder. It is best audible at a low engine speed and under a load.
1. Excessive piston-to-cylinder clearance Replace pistons rebore and hone cylinders
2. Excessive piston ring-to-groove clearance Replace rings or pistons with rings
Intake and Exhaust Valve Knock
Excessive clearances in valve gear cause characteristic knock, usually with regular intervals. Knocking frequency is less than that of any other engine knock, since the valves are operated by the camshaft, which rotates at half the crankshaft speed.
1. Excessive valve-to-rocker clearance Adjust clearance
2. Valve spring broken Replace spring
3. Excessive clearance between valve stem and guide Replace worn parts
4. Wear of camshaft cams Replace camshaft and valve rockers
5. Loosening of adjustment bolt locknut Adjust valve rocker-to-cam clearance and tighten locknut

Camshaft Drive Chain Noise

The camshaft drive chain noise becomes noticeable against the background of general engine noise in case of excessive clearance between the chain and sprockets and it is particularly loud at low engine speed.
1. Chain becomes slack because of wear Tighten up chain
2. Chain tensioner shoe or damper broken Replace tensioner shoe or damper
3. Chain tensioner plunger rod jamming Eliminate jamming

Oil Pressure too Low in Warm Engine at Idling Speed

1. Foreign matter getting under reducing valve of oil pump Clean valve of foreign matter and burrs, wash oil pump
2. Oil pump gears worn Repair Oil pump
3. Excessive clearance between crankshaft main journals and bearing shells Grind journals and replace shells
4. Excessive clearance between camshaft journals and bearing housing Replace camshaft or bearing housing
5. Use of engine oil of poor quality or no-recommended grade. Replace oil with that recommended

Oil Pressure too High in Warm Engine


1. Oil pressure reducing valve jamming Replace valve
2. Excessive rigidity of oil pressure reducing valve spring Replace spring
Excessive Oil Consumption
1. Oil leakage through engine seals Tighten fastenings or replace gaskets and glands
2. Choked-up crankcase breathing system Wash parts of crankcase breathing system
3. Wear of piston rings or cylinders Rebore cylinders and replace pistons and rings
4. Broken piston rings Replace rings
5. Gummed slots in oil control rings or cut-outs in piston grooves caused by use of oil of non-recommended grade Remove carbon from slots and cut-outs, use recommended oil
6. Valve oil-deflecting caps worn or damaged Replace caps
7. Heavy wear of valve stems or guides Replace valves, repair cylinder head.

Excessive Fuel Consumption

1. Choke valve fails to open completely Adjust choke valve linkage
2. High resistance to car motion Check and adjust tyre pressure, brake system, front wheel alignment
3. Wrong ignition timing Adjust ignition timing
4. Ignition Distributor vacuum spark timer faulty Replace vacuum timer or ignition distributor
5. Carburettor fuel level too high; carburettor needle valve or its gasket leaky look for foreign particles between valve seat and needle replace gasket or valve, if necessary. jamming or friction interfering with normal motion of floats Examine floats and replace them if necessary.
6. Carburettor air jets clogged. Clean jets.
7. Disturbed tightness of diaphragm of carburettor power duty economizer Replace diaphragm
8. Weak spring of power duty economiser Replace spring
9. Carburettor electromagnetic valve fails to cut off fuel delivery at forced Clean contact surfaces of switch idling; movable contact of limit switch in carburettor fails to connect to ground ; open circuit fault in wire connecting control unit with carburettor limit switch Check wire and it's connections, replace damaged wire. Defective control unit Replace control unit.

Engine Overheats

Pointer of coolant temperature gauge is in red zone of scale. Prior to trouble shooting check coolant temperature gauge and its transmitter for good repair.
1. Slackening of pump and alternator drive belt Adjust belt tension
2. Lack of coolant in cooling system Add coolant into cooling system
3. Wrong ignition timing Adjust ignition timing
4. Radiator heavily soiled on outside Clean radiator with jet of water
5. Thermostat faulty Replace thermostat
6. Defective valve in radiator cap ( opening pressure below 0.07MPa ( 0.7kgf/cm2 )) Replace cap
7. Coolant pump faulty Check , replace or repair coolant pump

Rapid Drop of Coolant Level in Expansion Tank

1. Radiator damaged Replace or repair radiator
2. Damaged hoses or pipe joint gaskets, loose clamps Replace damaged hoses or gaskets, tighten up clamps
3. Coolant leaking from heater cock or heater radiator Replace cock or heater radiator
4. Coolant leaks through coolant pump gland Replace gland
5. Radiator cap or its gasket damaged Replace cap
6. Cylinder head gasket damaged Replace gasket
7. Leakage of coolant through microcracks in cylinder block or head Check cylinder block and head for leakage of coolant, if cracks are detected replace defective parts
8. Leakage of coolant through microcracks in coolant pump body, cooling jacket outlet connection, expansion tank or intake manifold. Check for coolant leakage, if cracks are detected, replace damaged parts, minor leaks may be eliminated by type HNNC-1 stopleak into coolant


Power Train

Clutch Drags

Cause Remedy
1. Excessive clearance in clutch control mechanism Adjust Clutch control mechanism
2. Warpage of driven disc ( face runout over 0.5mm ) Straighten or replace disc
3. Roughness of driven disc facings Replace facings or driven disc assembly
4. Loosening of rivets or breaking of driven disc facings Replace facings, check end runout of disc
5. Jamming or driven disc hub on gearbox clutch shaft splines Clean splines and coat them with grease. If jamming is caused by mutilation or wear of splines replace clutch shaft or driven disc.
6. Breaking of plates connecting thrust flange with clutch cover. Replace clutch cover complete with pressure plate
7. Air in hydraulic system Bleed hydraulic system
8. Fluid leaks from joints or damaged pipes of hydraulic system Tighten joints, replace damaged parts, bleed hydraulic system
9. Fluid leaks from master or operating cylinder Replace sealing rings, bleed system
10. Clogging of hole in reservoir cover which causes depression in master Clean up hole in reservoir cover, bleed system cylinder and infiltration or air into cylinder through seals
11. Poor tightness caused by soiling or wear of master cylinder front sealing ring Clean sealing ring or replace if worn
12. Warpage or skewness of pressure plate Replace clutch cover complete with pressure plate

Clutch Slips

1. No clearance in clutch control mechanism Adjust clutch control mechanism
2. Heavy wear or burning of driven disc facings Replace friction facings or driven disc assembly
3. Oiling of driven disc facings, flywheel and pressure plate surfaces Wash oiled surfaces, eliminate cause of oiling
4. Clogging of master cylinder compensating hole Wash cylinder, clean up compensating hole
5. Clutch control mechanism damaged or jammed Eliminate faults that cause jamming.


Jerky Engagement of Clutch.

1. Driven disc hub seized on clutch shaft splines. Clean splines, lubricate them with grease. If seizure is caused by mutilation or wear of splines, replace clutch shaft or driven disc.
2. Oiling of driven disc facings, flywheel and pressure plate surfaces Wash oiled surfaces carefully with white spirit and eliminate cause of oiling.
3. Jamming in clutch control mechanism Replace distorted parts. Eliminate cause of jamming.
4. Heavy wear of driven disc friction facings Replace facing with new ones, check condition of disc surface.
5. Loosening of driven disc facing rivets Replace faulty rivets and if necessary, facings
6. Pressure plate warped or it's surfaces damaged Replace clutch cover complete with pressure plate.

Noisy Clutch Disengagement

1. Breaking or loss of resilience of driven disc damper springs. Replace driven disc assembly
2. Clutch release yoke return spring broken, lost it's resilience Fasten spring as required or replace by new one
3. Breaking of plates connecting pressure plate with cover Replace clutch cover complete with pressure plate.
Transfer Case
Vibration of Transfer Case and Body Floor ( in front seat area ) at Starting from Rest and Acceleration to 80 km/h
Cause Remedy
1. Misalignment of transfer case relative to engine unit. Align Transfer case
2. Loose or damaged supports of transfer case or rear supports of engine unit. Tighten attachment nuts and bolts or replace supports.
3. Stiff turning or binding in one of planes of front or rear propeller shaft joints. Repair universal joints or replace shafts assembly.
4. Incomplete release of parking brake. Adjust parking brake.
5. Stiff turning of constant velocity universal joint of intermediate Check condition of boot and joint. If joint parts are damaged, replace joint propeller shaft.

Vibration of Transfer Case and Body Floor ( in front seat area ) in Motion. ( especially at 80 - 90km/h )

1. Propeller shafts out of balance Replace or repair propeller shaft.
2. Centre differential out of balance Replace or repair centre differential
3. Binding in universal joints of front or rear propeller shafts Repair universal joints or replace propeller shafts in assembly
4. Binding of constant velocity universal joint of intermediate propeller shaft Check condition of boot and joint. If parts are damaged, replace them
5. Loose bolts and nuts of engine mounts or defective engine mounts Tighten up bolts and nuts or replace engine mounts
6. Bending of bolts and flexible coupling flange of intermediate shaft Replace bolts or intermediate shaft

Noise on Turns or During Slipping of Wheels

1. Difficult rotation of differential pinions on shaft Replace damaged or worn parts
2. Jamming of axle drive gears in differential housing Replace worn or damaged parts
3. Damaged working surface of pinions Replace worn or damaged parts.
4. Excessive end play of axle drive gears in differential housing Set a clearance of 0 - 0.10 mm with adjusting shims.

Difficult Gearshifting or Differential Locking

1. Sleeve jammed on splines of hub or differential housing. Dress off any burrs, nicks or scores, replace defective parts
2. Nicks on teeth of smaller rim of high or low speed gears, also on teeth Dress off any nicks or burrs, replace faulty parts of sleeves and on splines of front axle drive shaft
3. Bent fork or shift bar Straighten distorted parts
4. Distortion of transfer case control levers Straighten levers or replace them by new ones, if necessary
5. Jamming of control levers on axles Remove levers, clean axles and bushings. replace faulty parts


Uncontrollable Disengagement of Gears or Differential Lock.

1. Wear of gear and sleeve teeth. Replace worn parts
2. Detent springs lost their resilience or it's parts heavily worn Replace springs or worn parts
3. Incomplete engagement of gears and differential lock caused by distortion Straighten or replace distorted parts, dress down nicks and burrs, replace defective parts of control parts or nicks on gears, sleeves and splines.

Leakage of Oil

1. Sealing gaskets damaged Replace gaskets
2. Loosening of cover-to-housing nuts and studs Tighten up nuts and studs at places of leakage
3. Shaft glands worn or damaged Replace glands
4. Worn sealing rings of transfer case shift bars Replace sealing rings
nt seat area )